Phase-5: Roots of Fashion   

  ‘Roots of Fashion’ (Phase-5) consists of mixed-media paintings (Plates XIX - XXII), created with a taproot, branch roots and nodes. The artworks produced under Phase-5 differ from paintings produced at the preceding phases of the study in terms of materiality, techniques, the tactile and textural qualities of the compositions. Unconventional materials and collage techniques are used in the production process to enhance the metaphorical contents of the works, in preference to the conventional painting materials, such as acrylics, pastels and oil colours. Unconventional materials consisting of jute sheets (recycled from worn out jute sacks), polythene sheets (recycled from discarded rice sacks), woollen yarns (used for hair attachments), raffia sheets (from local trays, hats and fans), discarded fabrics offcuts, synthetic beads and plant seed beads (from a local tree) were used.

Fashion is among the three basic necessities of life. After food and shelter, fashion follows suit. Trending fashion is a significant factor in revitalizing the socio-cultural well-being of the community. In each painting, the picture plane is dominated by a taproot, which epitomizes the omnipotence of change in fashion trend. Under a common thematic focus, the paintings narrate the trajectory of fashion trend in Nigeria, making multiple references to societal happenings, culture and tradition of Nigeria as well as the proliferation of foreign fashion, culture and tradition. However, there are some variations in compositional structures of the paintings regarding the choice of materials, colour combinations, techniques and the tactile textural qualities.  

 

5.1 Roots of Fashion (i)

 

Plate XIX: Roots of Fashion (i), Stephen Achugwo ©2017, Jute and Polythene, 122 cm x 182 cm

‘Roots of Fashions (i)’ is a mixed-media painting, composed of a cross-section of Cassia tora root pattern and flat planes. The roots forms are created with pieces of jute, cut out from discarded jute sacks. Similarly, the flat planes are created with polythene materials, sourced from rice sacks. These discarded food sacks were initially used for the packaging and distribution of food commodities, such as rice, beans, sugar and garry within Nigeria, African countries and across different countries in the world.

Jute and polythene materials are used in this composition to enhance the metaphoric content of Cassia tora root forms. Jute has been in use by traders and farmers for food packaging since time immemorial. The worn out jute bags with turn parts and stripped edges are due to such a use. Cassia tora roots forms of jute materials epitomize the evolution of fashion in Nigeria. The brown earth colours of jute are also testaments of the long history of fashionable wears in Nigeria. The chequered planes of brown, yellow and silver are symbols of the variety of fashion styles in the country. 

5.2 Roots of Fashion (ii)

 

Plate XX: Roots of Fashion (ii), Stephen Achugwo ©2017

Polythene, Woollen Yarns and Fabric offcuts, 122 cm x 182 cm 

The second painting, ‘Roots of Fashion (ii)’ is more colourful than the first painting. The mixed-media composition is related to the previous work in terms of the thematic focus akin to fashion trend in Nigeria, with a variation in materiality. It is a polychromatic composition, led by blue and yellow hues. The picture plane is dominated by cross sections of Cassia tora root pattern, created with blue and yellow layers, cut out from polythene materials. The Cassia tora root pattern, created with polythene is framed with a thick outline, made with woollen yarns. The polychromatic background is composed of sheets of colourful fabric offcuts. 

 

5.3 Roots of Fashion (iii)

 

Plate XXI: Roots of Fashion (iii), Stephen Achugwo ©2017

Beads, Polythene, Woollen Yarns and Fabric offcuts, 122 cm x 182 cm

‘Roots of Fashion (iii)’ differs from the two previous works in terms of colour combination and materiality. Beads are added to the composition of this third painting. A Cassia tora root pattern, created with layers of Beads, Polythene, Woollen Yarns and Fabric offcuts, symbolizes the abundance of fashion designs and dresses in Nigeria. From the polythene segments, strands of woollen yarns propagate downwards, replicating the downward growth of Cassia tora roots as well as the downward flow of long hairs. The woollen yarns, mostly used as hair attachments, enhances the tactile qualities of this composition. The colour zones of white, gold, yellow and red hues represent the foreign influence on Nigerian fashion. The tap root and branch roots are framed with local beads, which make the root pattern stand out from the composition. This denotes the uniqueness of traditional Nigerian wears when compared to other wears in the fashion world. 

 

5.4 Roots of Fashion (iv)

 

Plate XXII: Roots of Fashion (iv), Stephen Achugwo ©2017

Jute, Polythene, Woollen Yarns, Raffia, Beads and Fabric offcuts, 152 cm x 183 cm

The fourth painting, ‘Roots of Fashion (iv)’ relies on multiple references to a variety of themes, including ‘variety is the spice of life’ (an allegory), festival, wedding and other aspects of Nigerian culture and tradition. The picture plane is dominated by Cassia tora root forms. At the right side of the painting, there is a cross section of the root pattern with a tap root and nodes, created with jute material. From the taproot, the branch roots and nodes spread all over the picture plane. The nodes are depicted by various circular sheets of jute, polythene, woollen yarns, raffia and fabrics offcuts, framed with beads. They epitomize the abundance of fashion designs and dresses, ranging from the local to foreign styles in Nigeria. The branch roots link up the nodes and various colourful planes, highlighting the relationships among various fashions worn in Nigeria for different social events. The colour zones of silver, gold, yellow and red hues represent the foreign influence on Nigerian fashion, while the circular layer made with raffia signify the uniqueness of Nigerian traditional wears within the fashion world.